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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.